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Inside me I hear three different voices. The first says, So this is it, youve finally lost it. The second voice urges, Hold on, dont let go. Be calm, lie down and fall asleep. The third voice is screaming. At dawn my dog, Diggity, licks me awake. The sky is cold and pitiless. My four camels stand hobbled nearby welcome, familiar shapes. Instinctively I start the morning routine boil the tea, pack the gear, saddle the camels and head south once more. It is my 7. 1st day of travel across Australias western desert. Slowly, as we get under way, the strings inside me knit together and I know who I am again. During the following four months on the trail the voices never returned, and in time I came to enjoy the silence and solitude of the desert. Australias arid western region, from the town of Alice Springs to the Indian Ocean coast, is a beautiful, haunting, but largely empty land. Dominated by the harsh, almost uninhabited Great Sandy and Gibson deserts, the region is known only to Australian Aborigines, a handful of white settlers, and the few travellers who motor across it. Why cross it by camelI have no ready answer. On the other hand, why not Australia is a vast country, and most of us who live there see only a small fraction of it. Beyond the roads, in the area known as the outback, camels are the perfect form of transport. One sees little by car, and horses would never survive the hardships of desert crossings. At the age of 2. 5, I gave up my study of Japanese language and culture at university in Brisbane and moved to the town of Alice Springs. I planned an expedition alone from Alice Springs to the Indian Ocean, a distance of some 1,7. Davidson was photographed by her occasional visitor Rick Smolan. For nearly a century, from the 1. The animals, imported from Afghanistan and India, proved highly successful until cars and trucks began to replace them in the 1. Many camels were then simply turned loose to roam the outback, where I was to find they can present problems for travellers. Camels are still trained in Alice Springs for tourist jaunts and for occasional sale to Australias zoos. Sallay Mahomet, an Australian born Afghan and a veteran handler, agreed to teach me something about the art of camel training. I worked with Sallay nearly three months, for camels are not the easiest of beasts to train. To begin with, they can kill or injure you with a well placed kick, and their bite is as painful as a horses. Patiently Sallay taught me to understand camel behaviour how to feed, saddle, doctor and control the animals, the last by kindness, discipline and use of a noseline attached to a wooden peg inserted through the animals nostril. Camels are similar to dogs a well trained one answers best to its accustomed handler. For an expedition such as mine, it was essential that I did most of the training. Through part time jobs, loans from friends, and finally with support from the National Geographic Society, I acquired the necessary equipment and four good camels a mature, gelded male whom I named Dookie a younger gelding, Bub a female, Zeleika and her calf, Goliath. Training and preparations took more than a year, but finally in early April 1. I was ready to leave. On April 8 Sallay and my father who had come from Brisbane to see me off trucked me, the camels, and Diggity to Glen Helen Tourist Camp, 8. Alice Springs. From there I journeyed to nearby Redbank Gorge, pausing long enough to say goodbye to my friends and helpers from Alice, who had all gathered there. Then I was off for the west coast, alone except for the intermittent company of the photographer Rick Smolan. The route that Davidson took from Alice Springs to the Indian Ocean. She covered 1. 70. DAY ONE That first full day on the trail was both exhilarating and terrifying. My initial stop was to be the Aborigine settlement of Areyonga, via an old abandoned track that wandered through dry, stony creek beds and gullies and often simply disappeared. A dozen times during the day I was struck by the chilling thought, Am I lost It was to become an all too familiar question in the months ahead. The emotional bond between Davidson and her camels was strengthened on the trip, although they were not above trying to steal her dinner. PHOTO Rick Smolan At sundown I camped beside the track and estimated my progress 2. Not bad for the first day only some 1,6. After hobbling the camels to graze, I built a brushwood fire and cooked a dinner of tinned stew. The blaze was welcome, for night time temperatures in the desert can drop to below freezing during Australias autumn and winter seasons. Finally I slid into my sleeping bag under an extra blanket or two and spent most of the night alternately dozing and wondering if I would ever see my camels again. But the occasional sound of their bells was reassuring, and at last I drifted off. The next morning settled one worry the camels seemed more scared than I was. I awoke to find them huddled as close as possible around the swag and Diggity snoring happily beneath the blankets. DAY FOUR In the afternoon we reached Areyonga, all slightly the worse for wear. My feet were blistered and my muscles were cramped. Diggity, too, was footsore and had to ride for a spell on Dookies back. Zeleika was a complete mess. Her hindquarters were weak, her nose was infected, and she had a huge lump in a vein leading to her udder. Bub was still uncertain about the whole thing. During those first days he had shied in terror not only at rabbits but even at rocks and leaves. Dookie was the only one without grumbles, he was having a great time. I suspect he had always wanted to travel. Davidson with her camels and Diggity the dog trekking towards the Olgas, 2. Alice Springs. PHOTO Rick Smolan After four days of total solitude Areyonga came as a shock, though a pleasant one. A mile outside the settlement we were greeted by a welcoming throng of Aborigine children, shouting, giggling and begging for rides. Seemingly hundreds of small hands reached out to pat Diggity when she was allowed down from exile atop Dookies back, and there was endless tickling of camel legs. For three days I rested at Areyonga, worrying about Zeleika, Bub and Goliath. I wondered what the next 3. Tempe Downs would do to us all. DAY EIGHT A few Aborigines accompanied us out of Areyonga for the first 1. Tempe Downs. Bidding me goodbye, my companions warned that the route over the mountains was an old one, unused for many years. My friends didnt exaggerate. After 1. 5 miles the mountain track occasionally began to peter out, and I spent hours sweating over maps and compass. I took a couple of wrong turns into a dead end canyon and had to backtrack out. To complicate matters, Bub chose the mountains to throw an unforgettable fit. Shortly after a midday pause he decided to buck the entire 5. As each article crashed to the ground, the more terrified Bub became and the harder he bucked. Finally he stood petrified, the dislodged saddle hanging under his belly and the items from the pack scattered for miles. Despite the setbacks, we made it to Tempe Downs in three days and marked our 1.